The Fabric

Know Your Fabric

For our first collection, we are using the finest pure linen because it is perfect for the Indian summer.

Pure linen is considered a premium fabric. Today, the market is filled with various blends, variations, and even counterfeits. Since pure linen is more expensive, it is important to know exactly what you are buying and paying for.

Linen is one of the oldest textiles in the world. It is made from the flax plant. From ancient Egypt to the European Industrial Revolution, linen has remained relevant across centuries.

While cotton has long been India's primary fabric, linen has gained popularity for its exceptional suitability to hot Indian summers.

Why Is Pure Linen Expensive?

Pure linen is made entirely from flax. Extracting fiber from flax is more labor-intensive compared to cotton or synthetic fabrics, and the yield is lower.

The process is slower and more delicate, which increases the cost.

In terms of quality, linen is stronger than cotton and becomes softer over time. It regulates heat better due to superior airflow and natural moisture absorption.

Types of Linen in the Market

1

Pure Linen

Made entirely from flax with no blending.

40 Lea Linen: Thicker yarn, slightly heavier, more structured, and less sheer.

60 Lea Linen: Medium-fine yarn with balanced drape. Breathable yet not too sheer. Softens beautifully with wear. Often considered ideal for everyday luxury.

80 Lea Linen: Very fine yarn. Lightweight, fluid, and more delicate. Can be slightly sheer depending on the weave.

Higher lea counts cost more due to finer spinning.

At KIKLI, we use 60 and 80 lea pure linen.

2

Blended Linen

Blended linen combines flax with cotton, viscose, silk, modal, or polyester.

Some blends, such as linen-cotton, can feel soft and comfortable. However, they are generally less expensive than pure linen because they use a lower percentage of flax fiber.

Understanding the difference helps you make an informed choice about what you are paying for.

How to Identify Pure Linen?

  • Feels slightly crisp at first
  • Has a naturally cool touch
  • Shows slight uneven texture (natural slubs)
  • Softens beautifully over time
The Wrinkle Test

Pure linen forms visible creases when scrunched. If it barely wrinkles, it is likely blended.